Writing and photography: Taylor Holmes

-Traditional Food-

For our second installment of our honeymoon in Iceland, we’ll talk about some of the old school Traditional Icelandic Food. Specifically some food of Þorramatur (thorramatur) the Nordic winter month when it’s time to crack in to the reserves. The early settlers of Iceland were very hardy folk, both clever and resourceful, they found a way to survive on a largely unforgiving island.

A lot of this food was based on necessity. Much of it is pickled, preserved, salted, dried, or fermented in order to help make it last through the colder seasons, when vegetation is more scarce, and food is harder to find. As we discuss this bold selection of backup grub, practice the difficult native tongue of Iceland by pronouncing the names of these dishes: Hákarl (fermented Greenland shark), hangikjöt (sheep meat smoked in sheep dung), súrir hrútspungar (sour pickled ram testicles), Brennivín (traditional Icelandic schnaaps), harðfiskur (dried cod), slátur (Icelandic blood pudding), skyr (A type of strained yogurt), and svið (boiled sheep’s head).

1: Hákarl

If you are a strong and bold adventurer, willing to brave the food necessary for survival in the harsh environment of Iceland winter, hákarl is for you. It’s one of the many types of food from Iceland’s history that is a challenge for the hardy and strong willed (strong stomached).

hákarl is fermented shark. Greenland shark to be specific. The shark lacks kidneys, so it’s meat is saturated in urea which makes it normally toxic to humans, the early settlers of Iceland found a way to make it edible, if not super palatable.

First the shark is gutter and cleaned. With the good meat exposed, it is then buried in the coarse sand with heavy rocks over it to press out the liquid contents. It’s left in the sand for up to twelve weeks before being dug up, carved in to strips, and hung dried for several more months. After the drying is complete, the dark and crusty outer layer is shaved off before serving.

The hákarl is served in small cubes or chunks, often paired with Brennivín, which helps make it easier to down. One bite, one sip. Often tourists who are bold enough to try it are suggested to pinch their nose, as the scent is much stronger than the taste, but I feel as though if you plan to try something like hákarl, it’s all or nothing. The scent is a VERY strong and pungent ammonia that’s likely to choke the unsuspecting, or at least trigger a gag. The meat itself is bitter, and very chewy. I find the scent almost reminiscent of a very stinky cheese that’s been forgotten in the fridge, with the taste being somewhat more mild, and the texture being that of a bicycle tire.

I find myself going back for more stinky cube shaped punishment every time we return to Iceland. I also can’t resist bringing some home for my friends and family!

2: Brennivín

One can not talk about eating hákarl without mentioning Brennivín. While not technically a food, it’s definitely a traditional must have as an international food explorer! It’s a clear aquavit, distilled from grain or potato, flavoured with caraway. Due to the strong flavour of caraway, Brennivín has a very pronounced odor that is reminiscent of fresh rye bread.

This strong herbal liquor pairs excellently with hákarl, helping take away a little bit of the ammonia tinged bite. It’s also a fun beverage on it’s own to have with friends. With the common name being “The Black Death” you can start to get the gist of Icelandic cuisine’s history.

3: Hangikjöt

Hangikjöt is dry smoked lamb meat, often hung dried and smoked for a very long time. Initially it was kept over the hearth or range to be slowly smoked over time, being saved for when food was scarce and it was needed most.

This boldly flavoured smoked meat lends its mild gaminess to the delicious Icelandic sheep meat. All of the sheep of Iceland live very liberating lives. Spending the warmer season completely free ranged, wandering about the countryside and marinating their tender meat with the flavour of the berries that they climb the highest peaks to eat.

Hangikjöt is typically smoked with the native Icelandic birch, sheep dung, or both. It’s intense smokiness is not for everyone. It’s quite bitter, rich and thick. The flavour of the smoke is the most prevalent flavour of hangikjöt, and it’s tougher texture lends itself to something reminiscent of a cross between prosciutto and jerky when served in very thin slices. It may also be served in a larger piece, like a steak or pork chop, served with peas and mashed potato, with uppstúfur (very similar to a bechamel sauce). The more modern types of hangikjöt tend to be more mild in their smokiness, as they are only smoked once, but the real traditional stuff is always worth trying!

4: Súrir hrútspungar

Súrir hrútspungar is possibly one of the boldest things I tasted during our first trip to Iceland. To put it plainly, it’s sour-pickled ram testicles.

The testicles are pressed in to blocks, boiled, and preserved in soured milk (similar to buttermilk). They have a soft and somewhat creamy texture, similar to chicken liver, but with a little bit of a subtle rubberiness. The preservation method gives them a distinctly sour taste that stays in your mouth for a short while (a good friend of mine had far too many in one sitting, and paid the price!). In my opinion it’s just another excuse to have some Brennivín to wash it down with!

5: Harðfiskur

Harðfiskur is a flaky, dried fish. Typically cod, it is very similar to jerky in that it’s tough and a bit chewy. It’s very dense and high in protein.

Often, harðfiskur is served with the delicious natural Icelandic butter, which you scoop up with the hard pieces of dried fish. The fishy flavour is quite subtle, and I personally found this “Fish jerky” highly addictive! I bought myself a very large bag from the duty free which I took home at the end of our trip!

6: Slátur

Slátur is an Icelandic style meat pudding. There are two types, one is a blood pudding, the other is a liver pudding. Both are made from sheep organs.

The liver pudding is very similar to haggis, and is quite agreeable. It’s a very mellow flavour, and soft creamy texture. It’s nicely served with bread or crackers, as it spreads very nicely too.

The blood pudding is somewhat stronger. A little more gamy and robust in flavour, it’s often seasoned with cinnamon, sugar and raisins. It can be fried, in which it comes out with a nice and crispy edge.

7: Skyr

Skyr is a type of strained yogurt, native to Icelandic cuisine. It’s very high in lean protein, much like greek yogurt. As well, like greek yogurt, it has a thick and creamy texture, with a soft sour flavour. Often times it will be served flavoured with honey, or berries.

Skyr is a very healthy, lean, and addictive snack that has now made it in to the international spotlight as a tasty treat worldwide!

8: Svið, (sheep’s head)

Svið is, simply put, the boiled head of a sheep. Traditionally it used to be made in to a type of head cheese, pressed and pickled in whey, similar to súrir hrútspungar.

Served humbly on a small wooden board, this boiled sheep’s head was my first real meal in Iceland.

What I ended up getting was a pleasant surprise! It was plainly seasoned, and served quite simply, but delectable none the less.

The eyes were delicious. Tender, soft consistency similar to the eyes of fish, with a much more mild fatty taste, and creamy texture. Next was the cheeks. Not nearly as much meat as I had hoped, but what was there was a delicious contrast to the eyes. It was soft, slightly less so than a piece of tender brisket, but with a very gamy flavour stronger than the normal cuts of lamb I was familiar with. Once the cheeks were picked clean, I had to try the tongue. Hands down the most delicious part of the meal. It had a consistency very similar to that of a beef liver, cooked medium, with the taste of a creamy chicken liver paté. Very velvety and buttery. Saving the best for last, I finally indulged in the brain. It was so creamy and mild, with a texture similar to Ooso bucco marrow. A fine delicacy indeed!

Bringing Iceland Home

While in the Reykjavik airport, I found a store that had almost all your Traditional Icelandic food needs. I got a mix pack of súrir hrútspungar, hangikjöt, and slátur. I also got a small package of hákarl separately. I had planned to have a night once we returned to Toronto where we could have a few friends over to try some of the delicacies with us.

“No, not happening” Russell said as I insisted he tried the sour pickled ram testicles. Evan and Russell both decided to join Katelyn and I for a board of the brave and bold Icelandic meals. I set out a tray with many of the delicacies laid out, mixed in with some other tidbits of meat, cheese and pickle.

Russell was very hesitant to try the bulk of the food. Evan; however, was more than willing to gobble it down. I would have never thought I’d see a man devour pickled ram testicles with such gusto. Little did he know, it would end in tragedy. A night of drinking on an empty stomach, followed by fist fulls of sour ram balls beget a painful morning for Evan.

After hearing about these strange delicacies, you may wonder why you should want to go to an Icelandic restaurant. The truth is, these kinds of foods are not the common food anymore. The average food served in restaurants is incredibly high quality, both in flavour and ingredients. Things are rarely labeled “Free range” “Organic” or “Fresh” because those are the staples in Iceland.